Roses, a Royal Flower.


Philadelphia Flower Show 2004

Rose Lecture

Rose Lecture at the 2004 Philly Flower Show
by Henry Weisl of the West Jersey Rose Society

For answers to your rose questions, email Henry at henjan@erols.com

Success with Roses

Requirements

  • Six hours of sun daily
  • well-drained soil
  • water at 1" a week or that translates to 5 gallons of water per week (do not spray roses with water, use a soaker hose or bubblier, or water the ground by hand)

Dont's

  • Don't prune in the Fall (only prune when the forsythia blooms)
  • Don't use anvil shears as it crushes the canes (only use bypass shears)
  • Don't use black tree prune sealer as the aromatics will kill the cane (seal only with Elmer's white glue to keep out cane borers)
  • Don't use Japanese beetle traps near roses as you will only attract beetles to your yard (shake off beetles, or dump into bowl of water containing detergent) or use milky spore disease.
  • Buying the right Rose for the conditions will help you succeed.
    Don't buy from a large wholesaler where the roses are likely to have suffered from lack of care or the quality may not be appropriate
  • Don't buy roses in March; plant them only after frost
    Only buy bushes with canes over 1/4 inch.

Types of Bushes

  • 90% of bushes sold are hybrid teas
  • Floribunda (have cluster flowers)
  • Grandiflora (big hybrid tea type)
  • Shrub roses (landscaping roses)
  • Ramblers
  • Climbers
  • Miniature Roses
    (Editor's note: Old Garden Roses are increasing in market share and interest because they are more disease resistant and take much less care than 'modern' roses. Many classify the OGR under the shrub heading. Check out the other article on roses we posted on our website.)

Planting your Rose Bush

  • Prune it back as most bushes are dug from a field and have lost roots.
    Mulch it an keep it wet (use the hose to clean off mulch if you need to do so)
  • Remove as much of the paper carton as possible without disturbing the roots. Cut the bottom of the container (plastic too) so you have a cylinder. Then cut vertically keeping the cylinder on the roots. (Paper containers don't really dissolve.)
  • Place the bush with the cut container into the hole, then pull up the split container–leaving the bush in the hole.
  • Make sure that the graft is at or about one inch below ground level as you fill in the hole (in this area).
  • Fill the hole with you composted soil mix, add some fish fertilizer, and then mulch it with pine needles or cedar needles.


Pests

  • Aphids, spider mites, Japanese Beetles, thrips and cane borers are the most troublesome to roses.
  • For aphids, you can see the red or green insects–hose them off, or pick them off.
  • Spider mites show themselves when leaves yellow on the bottom leaves and then progressively up the bush. You can determine if you have spider mites by holding a sheet of paper under the leaves and shake the leaf–you will see tiny insects on the paper.
  • Borers are dealt with by prevention of using Elmers' Glue on each cut cane.
  • Thrips attack the bloom (distorted blooms indicate you have thrips). Spray with a rose insecticide such as and Ortho or Bayer systemic insecticide. Othene is the active product.
  • Japanese Beetle control–use milky spore disease (apply the year before) and pick off beetles–or let them eat the roses for a month.

Diseases of Roses

  • Blackspot is contagious. Start spraying in mid-April and go through the summer to fall. Use a fungicide such as Rose Pride or Bayer "all in one." (Also baking soda at a half percent concentration-5 tablespoons a gallon--will work on Blackspot as will Daconil 2787).
  • Mosaic Virus is not contagious. The leaf will show veining. You can either live with it or avoid buying a bush that has mosaic.
  • Powdery mildew the bush can live with it, but you can again use baking soda at a half percent concentration to do away with it.

Fertilizing

  • Use Rose Tone once a month. (Don't use nitrogen after end of June for repeat bloomers). (Editor's Note: You can use fish fertilizer or manure, or compost as the alternative. Some Rosarians use Epsom Salts at a low concentration for a magnesium boost in mid season.)


 

Reine des Violettes, a hybrid perpetual
 
 
 
Souvenir de Malmaison
Lady Hillington, a tea rose (not a hybrid tea)

Links to Roses

The Antique Rose Emporium
By far the most inclusive source of high quality antique roses. They're in Texas, but ship everywhere.

Paul Barden's Old Garden Rose Information pages
Truly a fine resource for information and photos of old garden roses.

The American Rose Society
A source of information on modern roses and links to local clubs.

Help me Find Roses
A resource to help find types of roses and rose photos.

Charles De Mills
Editor's Note:
Black spot is a serious problem in moist climates such as New Jersey. However, if you buy resistant bushes (OGRs often are), provide good air circulation, add compost, and spray with a fungicide (even occasional spraying after rain helps), your rose bushes will thrive. Black spot seems to be most rampant if the ground has no clean compost on it. I found adding new compost around bushes helped eliminate blackspot. In many municipalities, compost is free (a result of their picking up leaves in the fall). I add new mulch over the compost each month, cleaning up dead leaves that might harbor blackspot disease. The fungicide that I use is Daconil 2787. As an organic fungicide many rosarians recommend using baking soda mixed with a bit of detergent to make the soda stick to the leaves. Research shows that baking soda at 0.5% really works to kill blackspot--so I'm going to try that this year.

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