|
Starting
Seeds
by
Karen Linder
Why
start seeds?
1. Many more varieties are available from seed. Nurseries only grow
popular varieties.
2. After initial investment in supplies, cost per plant can be lower
3. Provides the satisfaction of watching your plants grow
Sources of seed
1. Your own or friends' plants
2. Stores [Agway, hardware stores, nurseries etc.]
3. Seed catalogs [e.g.]
a. Burpee's
b. Nichols Garden
Seeds [esp. veggies and herbs]
c. Johnny's Selected Seeds
[esp. veggies and herbs]
d. Thompson and Morgan
[English - wide variety, not all suitable for US]
e. Seeds of Change [Heirloom
seeds]
4. Some warnings
a. Pay attention to zone, time to flowering, ease of germination,
light and moisture requirements.
b. Catalog should tell you what zone the plant is hardy in. Zone
9/10 plants are unrealistic if you live in NJ, unless you have a
heated greenhouse.
c. Annuals are ok regardless of zone, but you must start them by
the recommended date, if you want flowers
d. Some perennials may not flower the first year unless they get
an early start
e. Biennials will not flower the first year
f. Seeds that are labeled "difficult" to start will take
more effort.
g. It is easy to go "overboard" - know what you can truly
handle
Supplies required [ beside seeds]
1. Potting soil [preferably a seed starting mix]
a. Most seed starting mixes contain sphagnum moss, peat, Perlite,
and vermiculite [moisture retentive and light]
b. Ordinary garden soil is not recommended due to weed seeds, fungi
etc that may be present
c. Note: Most seed starting mixtures contain no fertilizer- subsequent
fertilization is required after seedlings have germinated
2.
Planting containers
a. Recycled 6-packs, plastic pots or
b. Peat pots or
c. Jiffy pots or
d. Miscellaneous containers [e.g. BBQ chicken packages with clear
domes]
e. Note: These should have some drainage to allow water to drain
away. Smaller containers [e.g. small 6-packs] require more frequent
watering
3.
Trays to hold planting containers
a. Purchased trays or
b. Aluminum pans
c. Note: These should be strong and water-tight
4.
Clear plastic covers to keep humidity high during germination
[either purchased, or SaranWrap cover].
5.
Labeling stakes [e.g. plastic marking stakes or wooden popsicle
sticks] and waterproof marker or pencil to label the stakes with
what you planted
6.
Light source
a. Very, very sunny south exposure window sill
b. Shop lights [fluorescent tubes] - double row
c. Plant-lights [fluorescent tubes]
d. Note: Failure to provide adequate light guarantees failure. Incandescent
lights not recommended due to high heat and drying potential
e. Light source automatic timer is optional, but very useful. Set
it for a 12-14 hour light cycle.
7.
Milled sphagnum moss [if sprinkled on top of soil, helps prevent
"damping off"]
8. Water source/large bucket to moisten soil
Basic procedure
1. Gather supplies
2.
Prepare potting containers
a. Moisten potting soil [in bulk - prior to putting it into
containers - it is hard to get adequate and complete moistening
if you put in containers and then moisten it].
b. Properly moistened soil should be the moistness of a "wrung-out'
sponge - not "mudpies'.
c. Fill potting containers with moistened soil, press in
gently to fill all gaps and air pockets
d. Place potting containers in planting trays
e. Water well, then "top-off" those pots that need more
soil.
f. Leave some "headspace" on the pot, so that plants
can be watered.
3.
READ THE SEED PACKAGE - which should provide much useful
information, including:
a. Suggested starting time [e.g. Feb-March or 4-6 weeks prior
to last frost]. This will differ from plant to plant
b. Suggested planting depth [rule of thumb - cover with one seeds
depth with soil unless otherwise noted]
c. Some seeds will require light to germinate [e.g. grass seed,
lettuce]. These will say "surface sow" or "do not
exclude light".
d. Some seeds have very tough coats and require pre-soaking [e.g.
morning glories, Datura] or filing or nicking of the seedcoat.
e. Some seeds require chilling after planting before they will germinate
[e.g. Columbine, aconitum]. This mimics the "natural"
process, where seeds fall to the ground in summer, swell in fall
rains, then chill for the winter, followed by germination in the
spring [stratification]. In catalogs, seeds labeled "challenging,
or difficult" to germinate often require stratification, so
be prepared. These can be planted, watered for a few weeks, then
put in a plastic bag and placed in the garage, fridge or outside
to chill.
f. Some plants prefer cool temperatures or warm temperatures to
germinate. These temperature preferences may be listed on the package
[and can sometimes be ignored]. Those that like a warm germination
temp may do better if planting trays are placed on the top of the
refridgerator.
g. Some seeds only need a few weeks before they are ready to plant
outside [e.g. zinnias, sunflowers]. I do not recommend starting
these before April.
h. Some seeds are better started outdoors. These will say "direct
sow in the garden" [e.g. morning glories, nigella, many poppies,
carrots].
Planting
1. For seeds that are "planted" in soil -Make small holes
for the seeds using tip of a paintbrush, pencil or other implement
and place individual seeds into the holes. Cover with soil and press
down gently.
2. For surface sow seeds: "Rough-up" surface of soil.
Sprinkle seeds lightly on surface and press down gently.
3. For very tiny seeds: Be careful - it is very easy to over-plant.
4. Label with variety planted, and any information that may be useful
[e.g. date planted, color, eventual height, eventual planting distance,
annual, biennial etc]
5. Water very gently [if needed]
6. Cover with clear plastic cover
7. Set under lights
Aftercare
1. Keep plastic cover on plant-tray to keep humidity high
2. With plant-lights, keep light as close to the top of the plants
or planters as possible [2-4 inches]
3. Check plants twice a day. Water [from top and bottom] as needed
to keep surface of soil from drying out, but do not waterlog them.
4. When majority of seeds have sprouted, or when sprouted seeds
are touching the plastic, remove plastic cover.
5. Different seeds will germinate at different rates. Be patient.
Some seeds may be "duds".
6. A good light source is essential. If plants are "leaning"
toward window or have tall weak stems, they probably need more light.
Rotate trays to keep plants upright.
7. Especially while seedlings are young, keep surface moist, but
as plants age, move toward "bottom" watering to encourage
root growth down. Don't forget about them. - remember to check them
morning and night. Don't let them stand in significant water or
roots will rot.
8. Thin seedlings to one or two per container by selectively pulling
out weakest seedlings. Alternatively, remove entire pot content,
gently break up soil into individual plants and replant each of
them into a larger container of its own.
9. Seed starting soils that are mostly sphagnum moss contain little
or no nutrients. A few weeks after germination, begin watering occasionally
with dilute fertilizer [e.g. Peter's, Miracle Grow or organic equivalents
]. Hint - if all plants turn red or purple, or are pale yellow,
they probably need it. Don't over-fertilize or you may burn the
roots.
Hardening off
1. Plants started inside are tender, and cannot stand up well to
harsh conditions - e.g. cold or hot temperatures, direct sunlight,
strong winds, strong rain.
2. When plants have some substance, start putting trays outside
for part of the day in a sheltered, partially sunny spot [don't
fry them with direct, all-day sunlight or leave them out in driving
rain].
3. Gradually give them more exposure to the out of doors conditions
that they will need to withstand. I harden off for at least 2 weeks.
Bring plants in if frost or bad weather threatens, but give them
enough outdoor time to toughen them up. Watch out for bunnies and
other varmints.
4. Prepare a place in your garden and plant. Water well and keep
an eye on the new seedlings until they are well established.
Problems
1. "Damping off" - Stems collapse and look rotten or spindly
[especially near base]. This is fungal infection of plant vasculature.
Once observed, it cannot be reversed for that plant. Immediately
sprinkle milled sphagnum moss on surface of all other containers
to keep it from spreading. Some plants more susceptible than others.
2. Weak flimsy stems - indicate not enough light. Bring light source
closer [almost touching], buy a "shoplight" or Plantlight
or place plants outside in good weather.
3. Red, purple or very pale plants - water with dilute fertilizer
to provide nutrients.
4. Overwatering - waterlogged soil, algae growth on surface, plants
red or purple due to lack of oxygen. Pour off water in planting
trays and stop watering until the mudpie has dried up a bit.
5. Underwatering - at early stages, a good parching will kill your
babies.
6. Failure to germinate - use of old seed, seed that requires stratification,
or seed that was allowed to dry out at a crucial time
Rewards
The knowledge that you grew it from seed, and bragging rights when
the plant thrives.
Better awareness of each plants unique characteristics
Ability to start 24 foxgloves if you want to, without having to
pay $7.99 a pop for them.
|
