LOTIONS
TOILETRIES
Introduction
While cosmetics can be traced back at least to the time of the
Egyptians, we know that women used various compounds to enhance
their beauty or to make them feel pampered. Men too wanted to
enhance their appearance and virility. From fragrances to lotions
to hair products, each era valued their own form of lotion to
create beauty.
Ideal
beauty in Victorian times
The ideal was to show social status by genteel appearance. This
look included a very white or pale skin; hence the many recipes
to remove freckles, to bleach skin or cover the skin with white
powder. Some beauty products were dangerous, and even were known
to be dangerous at the time, such as white lead, which can cause
infertility or even death.
Prior
to and during most of the 1800s, women made their cosmetics or had
them made. It wasn't until the 1900s did the cosmetic industry expanded
into everyday life. In the early 1900s, Helena Rubinstein and Elizabeth
Arden opened rival salons. For women of color, Madam Walker, who
started her business with hair products, provided cosmetic products
and became a millionaire in the process. In the 1800s, women orally
passed down recipes for cosmetics side by side with recipes on how
to preserve linen, or get rust out of garments.
Fragrances
Many of the essential oils derived from plants are too strong to
be used by themselves for fragrances; they are usually cut by alcohol
or other oil so they can be used on the skin. The types of oils
used include, lard, vegetable oil, cocoa butter, or nut oils, such
as coconut or almond oils. The recipes are below.
Cologne
Cologne alcohol, 1 pt.; oils of English lavender and bergamot, each
1 2 drs.; oil of rosemary, 2 dr.; oil of cinnamon, 2 drops; essence
of lemon, 1 2 drs.; mix. (Dr. Chase's recipe)
To
Perfume Linen
Rose leaves dried in the shade, cloves, beat them together, and
to a powder, and mace scraped: mix them together and put the composition
into little bags. (Family Receipt Book, 1819)
Lavender
Water
Put two pounds of lavender pips into two quarts of water, put them
into a cold still, and make a slow fire under it; distill it off
slowly; and put it into a pot till you have distilled all your water;
then clean your still well out, put your lavender water into it,
low fire under it; distil it off slowly again; put it into bottles
and cork it well. (Family Recipe Book, 1819)
Toiletries
for the Skin
Pimples
or skin diseases, Valuable Remedy for.
l Glycerin (English or Price's), 100 grs. (Grains); corrosive
sublimate, 5 grs. Directions: Rub the corrosive sublimate in a little
of the glycerin; then mix all and apply morning and evening. (Dr.
Chase's book)
Freckles,
Remedy for.
The following remedy is said to have been found efficacious in Europe.
Finely powdered sulphophenate of zinc (line of the newer remedies)
1 part; oil of lemon, 1 part; pure alcohol, 5 parts; collodion,
45 parts; drops, grs, or drs. (drams) As you please, may be used.
Directions: mix well, then apply to the freckles, twice daily, until
the change is affected. (Dr. Chase's remedy) [Note: the Victorian
ideal beauty had no freckles, but a pale skin]
Sunburn,
to Remove.
Water, 1 pt.; pulverized borax, 1 oz.; Directions: put in a bottle
and shake before using. Wet the parts, blackened by exposure to
the sun, twice daily.
(Dr. Chase's book)
Astringent
Rose Vinegar
Steep petals in white wine vinegar for 2 weeks in a warm place out
of direct sunlight. Cook with rose vinegar or use as an astringent
wash for the face body.
Hair products
Hair
dye Black Berrys Best
a) Pyrogalic acid, 1 dr., distilled, pure rain water, 6 oz.
B) Nitrate of silver, crystals, 2 drs.; strong qua ammonia, 1 oz.;
gum arabic, dissolved in a little water, 1 dr.; mix all
c) Directions: First apply No 1. And let it dry; then No. II. And
let dry. And if by carelessness there are any spots on the face,
take them off with No. I of the brown. Alcohol will take them off,
but not as nicely as the sulphuret of the next day. (Chase)
Hair
dye, Brown or a lighter shade.
I. Sulphuret of potash, 1 oz.;
Distilled or pure rain water, 2 pt.
II. Use the No. II of the Black, in other words, the dys are the
same. Directions Apply No. I. The sulphuret and let it dry; then
apply No II of the Black until you get a little darker shade than
you desire; then reapply the No. I, sulphuret, which leaves the
desired shade by making it a little lighter than it was. (Chase)
Remarks:
with care in this you can make the beard of hair a very light brown
or quite a dark one; for if you get it darker than you wish, wash
right off with the luster below. These dyes and the 1st luster below
are from my friend C.S. Eley, a practical barber, and are very reliable;
but it needs care and a little experience to work well with hair
dyes. (Chase's book: pg. 634)
Hair
Oil, or Dressing very fine
Castor oil and cologne alcohol, each 2 pint; oil of lemon grass,
1 dr.; oil of bergamot, 2 dr.; mix. (Chase)
Hair
Dressing Striking in its perfume.
Castor oil, 1 pt. cologne alcohol, 2 pt.; oil of lavender (English
is claimed to be the best), 2 drs; oil of bergamot, 3 drs.; oil
of citronella, 4 drs.; mix. (Chase's pg. 634)
Hair
dressing that Turns Gray Hair to a Dark Shade, without Lead
Cheap and Very Nice. Glycerin and rose-water, equal parts, say 1
or 2 ozs. each. Work well into the roots of the hair at each morning's
dressing. (Chase's pg. 634)
Hair
and Hand Dressing Home made perfume Very Fine
Put rose petals (leaves of the flowers) or geranium leaves, or the
flowers or leaves of any other perfume plants (the mignonette and
heliotrope would be fine), that you desire into a bottle, pressing
the bottle pretty full, then put in glycerin, all the bottle will
hold; cork; or if a glass-stopped bottle all the better. In 3 or
4 weeks the aroma (perfume)(will all be extracted by the glycerin,
when it may be stained or not as you choose. Alcohol will do the
same, but it is not equal to the glycerin.
Rose Water Mouthwash
Mix equal parts of rosewater and tincture of myrrh (Commiphora mol
mol) for an alternative to OTC mass-marketed "green stuff."
(Chase)
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